Join us on a journey in time through the village of Kildonan in celebration of the 100 year history of the Village Hall and what the history behind our village actually is. Collated by members of the village, this experience goes over every detail of Kildonan's history and current life.
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'Kildonan'
The name is taken from the church of St Donan, a 6th century disciple who came to Arran to reputedly evangelise the heathen inhabitants.
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It is said that he was buried at the side of the mill wheel at Kildonan Farm, at which location there is also said to be the foundation of an ancient chapel. As there are however at least 7 Kildonans, at Kirkmaiden, Chapel Donan, Eigg, Arran, Highland, Skye and Little Bernera in the Outer Hebrides, it is more likely that he passed through Kildonan, Arran, on a missionary route north, culminating in his martyrdom on Eigg along with 50 of his monks in the year 617. It is not known who committed the act, as Eigg was populated by picts at the time who were tolerant of the efforts of such as monks attempting to convert them to Christianity. It is thought that a group of “Black Gentiles” from Jutland or Denmark may have been responsible.
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The village, as it is today, gradually grew out of the number of small clachans dotted around the district and is split as High Kildonan and Low Kildonan.
Kildonan East - 1869
Kildonan West - 1869
The Journey Starts...
The Journey starts at the hall heading eastwards. Looking along the shore from Yellow Port, with the village hall on the left. Pictured below around 1920 and then in 2015.
Breadalbane Guest House
Below, pictured in 1933 and then in the early 50’s. Note in the photo below, to the right of the drive a cigarette machine, which ended it’s days in Whin House.
Photographed again in 2007. Sadly this excellent pub and holiday destination was purchased in 2007 for the sole purpose of demolition and redevelopment of the land into flats just as the property boom crashed, the site now lies abandoned. A great loss to the village and many regular visitors.
Drumla Lodge
Drumla Lodge was built in 1895 by Clarke (of Saxone Shoes) for his American bride, in the style of southern American states mansion.
It is believed that the Duke of Hamilton so objected to the development he forbid the use any of the ports on the island (and he owned them all) for bringing in the materials. As a consequence the materials were brought in by smacks to Yellow Port. Looking back the view has changed somewhat.
If following this journey at low tide be sure to look out for seals basking on the rocks and as you approach the point where the road leaves the shore you may glimpse otters fishing or eating their catch.
Kildonan School
In 1828 the Assembly of the Church of Scotland provided 3 schools in the South End, at Kildonan, Sliddery and Whiting Bay. Little Mill was the site of the Kildonan school and had as many as 70 pupils on the register. The Little Mill school (as seen in the second below picture) was later to be described by the Reverent Mr McMillan, Minister of Kilmory as a model country school.
This school survived until around 1873 when the School Board came into existence and a new school was built towards the eastern end of the village, now known as the “school houses”. This school had a register in 1920 of 64 pupils.
In the early days of schooling a teacher’s salary was generally no more than £19 per year and typically school fees were:
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reading - 2 shillings (10p) per quarter
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reading and writing – 2 shillings and sixpence (12 ½ p) per quarter
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reading, writing and arithmetic – 3 shillings (15p) per quarter
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navigation and book keeping - £1 per course
During the 1800’s the Sunday School was held in an annex to the Manse, at Mansefield.
Back row: Ian Shaw, David Gilmour, Grant McKelvie, Neil Shaw, Dougie McNab, Donnie McKelvie, Bobby Gilmour, Ian Reid, David Allan.
3rd row: Netta Stewart, Jenny Crask, Jean Moffat, Mary Stewart, Rachael Reid, Margaret Torbett, Charlotte Camber, Charlottes’ sister.
2nd row: Roy Murdoch, ????, Alex Petrie, David Wigget, Jim Reid, Alistair Stewart, Joey Ritchie.
Front row: Arnot Reid, ????, Maureen Wigget, Jean Nichol, Sheila McPake, John Smith, Loudore Melrose, Donald White.
Back row:
Sheena Nichol, Innes Campbell, Elizabeth McNab, Winifred Stein.
Middle row: Frances McNeil, Heather Potts, Betty Mcdonald, Georgina Charles
Front row: Douglas Stein, Aisla Campbell, Margaret Miller, Anne McNeil, Margaret Hamilton, Lachie Miller
By 1968 this number of pupils had fallen to 5 and as a consequence the Education Authority decided to close the school, in that year, on economic grounds. The pupils werer transferred to Whiting Bay primary school where they still travel to this day.
The school houses today provide self catering accommodation in the village.
Wild Kildonan
by Terry Southall
Situated on the south west end of Arran, Kildonan is a natural haven for wildlife with its varied habitats from sandy beaches and rocky shores to wooded braes and cliffs. The local area can boast well over a hundred species of birds and is the place on Arran to watch Common Seals and the more elusive Otter. The close by island of Pladda and its breeding colonies of seabirds overlooks Kildonan and in the summer many of its inhabitants may be seen feeding off the shore.
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The largest colony of Common or Harbour Seals on Arran may be seen hauled out on the dykes in Auchenhew Bay to the west of the village and is a popular visitor attraction. Seals need to haul out of the water to rest and digest their food and also to socialise especially the youngsters.
Among the many Common Seals you may occasionally see an Atlantic Grey Seal. They differ from their close cousins by having a more rounded head and “roman nose” appearance, unlike the “puppy” faced look of the Common Seal.
In the summer months Common Seals give birth to their young which are born the same colour as the adults and can swim soon after birth. Grey seals breed in late autumn and early winter and give birth to white coated youngsters, a throw back from the ice age when they had their pups on the ice flows. At this time young seals are most vulnerable to disturbance and so caution must be taken in not getting too close when you visit these areas.
Another commonly seen aquatic animal around Kildonan is the Otter. Otters are often seen along the shoreline as they hunt for crabs and fish hidden amongst the rocks and seaweed.
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Quite often the females have their pups with them which are born in the spring time and do not become independent until about 9 months old. The youngsters are quite vocal and often squabble and play fight with each other until mum appears with a tasty morsel. Male Otters are larger than the females and are for most parts solitary animals. Breeding males hold and defend territories which may contain several females.
The woodlands around the village are the home to Red Squirrels which often raid the bird feeders in many of the gardens. No Grey Squirrels are found on Arran so the native Red Squirrel is safe from the contagious “squirrel pox”. This is carried by the Grey Squirrel which is immune but it is lethal to the Red Squirrel. Because of the isolation of Red Squirrels on Arran researchers from as far as Austria have been studying them in recent years.
One of the most spectacular birds which is seen from the shore is the Gannet In the summer months it can be watched as it folds its wings back and dives at breakneck speed into the sea after fish. To the south of Kildonan is Ailsa Craig which holds a colony of breeding Gannets which number many thousands.
Other sea birds that inhabit the inshore waters are Cormorants and Shags both breed on the nearby island of Pladda. Studies of these two species have shown that in recent years the breeding numbers of Shags on Pladda are in decline but the Cormorant is increasing. Several sea ducks are present the whole year along the coast of Kildonan these being the Eider Duck and the Red-breasted Merganser. Eiders can often be seen between Pladda and Kildonan were they dive to reach the shell fish and crabs on which they feed. The Red-breasted Merganser can be seen close in all along the coast mainly in pairs as they search for fish.
Another noticeable duck often seen in pairs is the Shelduck. It is common along the shore but from late summer onwards these ducks head off to the North Sea to moult, not returning again until January and February.
The Mallard is present all year and may often be seen during the winter months with Widgeon a visiting duck from Iceland and Scandinavia. Herons are often seen along the shore, stalking fish and crabs in the rock pools or roosting in the trees on the braes east of the village.
Quite a few wading birds breed up on the higher parts of the beach, these include the charismatic Oystercatcher who soon lets you know with its shrill piping call if you are too close to its nest or young. On the other hand the Ringed Plover who also nest on the shingle are more secretive and the first you know about being too close to the nest is the bird feigning a broken wing, leading you away from the nest.
The wailing call of the Curlew is heard nearly all year along the shore. Numbers of these birds increase during spring and autumn as migrants pass through. Two species of waders that spend the winter on the rocky shore at Kildonan are the Turnstone and Purple Sandpiper. Both these species breed in the high arctic and travel from as far as Canada to winter here.
Often heard overhead is the mewing of the Buzzard as it effortlessly soars on a thermal, quite often being harried by Hooded Crows or the much larger Raven. These two members of the crow family are often seen about the village. Many species of passerines(small perching birds) can be seen about the village Blackbirds and Song Thrushes hunting worms on garden lawns. The familiar chirp of the House Sparrow and mimicking song of the Starling are still common to hear, unlike south of the border where their numbers have dropped dramatically.
Another bird suffering over a 70% decline in its numbers in the last twenty years is the House Martin, familiar to us all as it builds its nest of mud under our own house eaves. Young House Martins a few weeks after leaving the nest head off to Africa. Roosting on the wing these birds do not land on earth until spring when they arrive back at the area where they were born. The commonest of the warblers about Kildonan is the Willow Warbler a herald of spring with its familiar song. Blackcaps and Whitethroats abound in the Braes and Sedge Warblers take up residence in the reeds and sedges and Bluetits, Coaltits, Greatits, Chaffinches, Green Finches, Bull Finches and many more abound in the gardens and hedgerows.
These are some of the many birds and animals that abound in this beautiful area, so please go out and enjoy seeing and discovering them for yourselves. (Photographs within the above text are credited to Sheila Bryson a local artist, in the village, who along with her partner Freia Gaea run the The Wee Gallery close to the Castle) Further excellent reading on the birds of Arran can be found in the Arran Bird Atlas produced by island residents Dr J Cassels, Kildonan residents Terry Southall and Alan Hollick
Evidence of early wild life in Kildonan can be seen at four locations on the shore in the shape of dinosaur footprints The footprints were made around 240 million years ago by a Isochirotheorium herculis – Hand beast -, so called because the rear footprints resemble a human hand. The first footprint was discovered by Fiona Gorman of Brodick and can be seen at the Heritage Museum in Brodick, further discoveries were made in May 2007 on coastal exposures between Port Dearg (NS 032 206) and Port Buidhe (NS 025 208) in the east and Port a’Ghillie Ghlais (NS 003 209) in the west, further trackways and footprints near to Levencorroch and Bennan Head (NR 991 022) were discovered in July 2007. Additionally John and Jean Fitzpatrick of Sliddery found more on the coast south east of Port Mhor
The Kildonan Hotel
The Kildonan hotel is reputedly one of the oldest on the Isle of Arran, dating from at least 1800. The hotel was run by the Jamieson Brothers in the early 1900s, they provided conveyance, as seen in this 1905 photograph, to and from Whiting Bay Pier, the horse drawn carriage was later replaced by a motor omnibus in 1914.
The hotel’s coastal position gives it a magnificent view out over the Firth to the Ayrshire and Wigtownshire coastlines and also of the Irish Sea. The Hotel had several major extensions built during the 1920s and 30s to accommodate for the increased amount of tourism the island was receiving.
A poem by Allan M Wilson, commemorating the introduction of electric lights at the Kildonan Hotel in July 1931
Pictured around 1933 above and 1958 below
Above pictured from the Brae showing the tennis courts and as can be seen in the photo below those extensions have carried on right up to the present day. The hotel having been brought right up to date by the present owners Rod and Anne Acuna.
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Adjacent to the hotel is the very popular Seal Shore camping and caravan site.
Coastguard House and Lloyds Signal Station
Lloyds started life in the Coffee House business and distinguished themselves in that news and in particular news on shipping was read aloud in the coffee house. The Golden Fleece sailing from Lisbon to Venice, was the first vessel to be insured at Lloyds Coffee House on the 20th January 1600.
During the 1600s the coffee house was used as a centre for communication. In fact in 1689 a Capt J Bradlye offered a reward of 20 shillings to anyone giving information at the coffee house that would lead to the return of a runaway back into his service, which gives an idea of the diversity of information exchanged.
Eventually the dissemination of the news became of greater importance than the business of selling coffee, and the earlier the news could be distributed the better, as Lloyds as insurers and ship owners wanted to know if the vessels and hence their investment was to reach port intact.
To this end a system of signalling between shore and ship was devised and under the Lloyds Signal Station Act 1888, signal stations were established around the shores of Great Britain and Ireland. Signal stations were subsequently established across the globe. Using semaphore or flags the necessary messages were conveyed to Lloyds and the ship owners notifying them of a ships progress and probable arrival in port.
In 1919 on the 18 May, pilot Harry Hawker and his navigator, Lieut -Commander Mackenzie Grieve set out from Newfoundland to fly the Atlantic. Unfortunately 3 days later there was no siting and no news, neither of which would not be forthcoming until ships known to be in the area reached port. The intrepid fliers were forced to ditch in the Atlantic but were fortunate enough to be picked up by a Danish tramp steamer, which was able to signal to the Lloyds station on the Butt of Lewis that the men were safe, thus news of their safety reached London and the national press some 6 days before their actual arrival.
Dippin Brae
Before going up the Street you may want to take the track on the right to take a closer look at what remains of Kildonan Castle, though it can only be viewed from a short distance as the remains are on private land.
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Kildonan Castle is a 14th century stone rectangular tower house, founded by the MacDonalds. Built on a rocky promontory, the three storey tower is defended by steep slopes down to the beach and a northern ravine. In 1406, King Robert III granted Kildonan to John Stewart of Ardgowan and in 1544 it passed to the Hamiltons. The basement and first floor hall once had barrel-vaulted roofs and the crudely mortared walls of this crumbling ruin stand to third floor level. There is now no trace of the turnpike stair or an entrance but the basement with its two gun-loops is still vaulted.
The Street
Half way up the street you may want to take the track on the right in front of the bungalow and follow it down to the shore.
Port Leacach, Pavement Port
So called because of the pavement like formation of the rocky shore

Returning back up the track but taking a right turn will take you back up to the road past Kildonan Farm.
Dippin/Dippen
Follow the road all the way up the brae now to the junction of the main road and this is Dippin/Dippen.
There are two spellings of the name Dippin-Dippen, the ‘e’ being a result of a mis-spelling of the name on the Royal Mail Post Office franking stamp.
Dippen was the site of the local shop and the first Kildonan Post Office
The mail was delivered to Kildonan originally by boat then by foot twice a week from Whiting Bay until in 1880 when a horse post was introduced, also it was in this year that the sub-office was opened. On the 1st January 1934 a second sub-office, Kildonan Shore, was opened at Auchenhew Bay at the Kildonan Stores, the Post Master being Mr Cook. The Cooks owned this shop for around 125 years. This shop and Post Office closed in 2009.
Dippin was also the location of the Kildonan Golf Course, the club house being situated along the high road.
Members of Kildonan Golf Club at their competition in 1948. Unlike many of the courses on the south end of Arran such as Kilmory, Kildonan course remained open for a number of years after the war.
At this point turn left along the main road and follow it to opposite the track leading up to Marganish Farm
From this point new paths have been installed by the landowner on the left going down to Kildonan through the glen and on the right going up to Eas Mhor waterfall and whilst the view is not as it is in this postcard from the early 1900’s it is still worth the walk.
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If you take the circular path via the waterfall it will bring you back to the road opposite the top of Church Brae which takes you back down to Kildonan.
Kildonan Churches
The United Free Church
From the turn of the 20th century members of the congregation had started to drift away from the Free Church and join the United Free Church. A vote was taken in a meeting in the village school and this was cast in favour of the United free Church and a new church was built on the Brae.
The United Free Church was converted in the early 2000’s as private residence and self-catering holiday apartments. On the right farther down the brae is Cnoc farm.
Looking east across Church Brae from the Cnoc, showing Whin House and Lily Bank
Looking across west Kildonan from the Cnoc
At the foot of the brae at the telephone box turn right into Auchenhew Bay and head out towards the west.
The first building on the right is Ocean Breeze B&B and adjacent to it the old shop, pictured below in the early 1900’s.
Kildonan Stores
Kildonan was well served for over a 130 years by the small stores in Auchenhew Bay, which was owned and run by the Cook family, Finlay Cook still lives in the village today.
Delivery boy with horse
Cooks stores were forward thinking and offered a delivery service and in fact ordered the first petrol driven delivery vehicle on the island but after waiting some considerable time for it to be made and supplied, as soon as it was ready to leave the factory it was immediately commandeered for the war effort.
Cooks stores produced many of the postcards seen in this book.
The Cook family sold the shop in 1995 and it was run until 2009 by Russell and Elspeth Cheshire. The site of the shop and B&B today. This is also the home of Ocean Breeze Rib tours operated by Russell and Elspeth.
Continuing along the path, a gentle stroll beyond the first two gates at low tide will reveal many seals basking on the dykes, however please take care and do not try to get close to them as they will be resting or sleeping and regaining body warmth. To approach to close will only result in them dropping back into the water.
Between the 2 gates you may want to drop down onto the beach and try and find the dinosaur footprints in the sand stone bedrock. One of 5 locations down here in Kildonan.
Carrying on along the shore you will come to Levencorrach Falls and for the more energetic amongst us, carrying on along the shore will bring you to Struan or Black Cave and Falls, however this walks needs to be attempted when the tide is on its’ way out and only by the more able as the last few hundred metres is more of a scramble over very large boulders. The cave and the falls when in full flow are worth the effort.
Sea and Coast
The Kildonan shoreline boasts 5 locations which in the past were used regularly as ‘harbours’, of which 4 make use of the natural rock dykes and one is manmade. In the late 1800’s and early 1900s Port a’ Buidhe, Yellow Port, the largest of the four landing the post, coal and other goods, is in the centre of the village.
Smacks moored in Yellow Port
To the east towards Dippin Rocks is Port Leaceach, (pronounced Leek). Out towards Bennan are two more locations, the first one encountered uses a natural dyke and it can be seen that the rocks are worn smooth and flat by the hauling of boats. Can you find the metal anchoring loop that still remains?
The other, Port a’ Ghille Ghlais, Port of The Grey Boy, just before the fourth gate on the path to Bennan Head, is man made from boulders. It is likely these last two ports were used by fishing families that lived on east Bennan. It is believed also that potatoes, grown on East Bennan may have been shipped out from these two ‘ports’. The outlines of the lazy beds can still be seen on east Bennan.
Yellow port was used regularly by smacks bringing in coal and other goods. Mail for Kildonan was also brought into Yellow Port until the introduction of a Horse Post. There was a weigh bridge at Yellow Port, approximately opposite the Village Hall, for weighing out the goods in transit.
The shore here, has in keeping with the rest of the shore line of Scotland, claimed its’ share of passing ships, one of which was the Princess Patricia.
The Community
Anne & Peter Hamilton outside Whin House
Local people at the opening of Torrilin Creamery by Her royal Highness Princess Elizabeth
The cushion fight at fun week.
Fun week is still held annually around the second week in July during which various events such as coffee mornings, nature walks, car treasure hunt, bbq, sports day, are organized by locals to raise funds for the upkeep of the hall. The Kildonan branch of the Scottish Womens Institute has been active in the village since 1947 and makes regular use of the hall for meetings, talks, coffee mornings etc.
Geology
This location contains the best-exposed dyke swarm in the British Tertiary Volcanic Province and arguably one of the best examples in the world. The site encompasses the littoral shore zone from Cleitheadh Buidh east for about 5 km to Kildonan Castle, and the cliff at and immediately west of Bennan Head. The south Arran dyke swarm consists of about 200 basalt and dolerite dykes, forming one of the best-exposed sections through a Tertiary dyke swarm.
Various types of dolerite are represented by the dyke swarm along with red and white Triassic sandstones through which the dolerite intrusions run and though the intrusions had not originally penetrated the surface are now exposed with the erosion of the softer sandstones. More information can be found here.
As a consequence of the geology the shore line of Kildonan and Auchenhew is a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest.
The Weather
As with the rest of UK plays a significant role in the village and though Low Kildonan appears to have its’ own micro climate and whilst bringing a more temporate environment than perhaps the rest of the island enjoys it does occasionally suffer some severe weather. Being exposed to strong southerly gales the shingle beach is often to be found on the road during the winter months.
Sections of the shore road have also been destroyed
in recent years
